Pakistan border ceremony

I had no idea what to expect when I decided to go to check out the closing of the border ceremony at the India-Pakistan border outside Amritsar, known to many Indians as a “must-see.” The ceremony itself was underwhelming and cheesy, but the energy and comedy provided by the before and after were definitely memorable!

First, waiting in line for an hour to get a good seat, I noticed that Indians were policing themselves with line jumpers. This is unusual since usually these things go with “no problem” (one of the two most ubiquitous phrases in India, alongside “not working” – the pair make an interesting statement, eh?). But after waiting in a relatively peaceful and organized line, as soon as the gates opened, people rushed forward with so much intensity that I'd say it is probably in the top 3 most violent moments of my life.People were running, pushing and shoving, falling down and nearly trampling small kids. It was remarkable how quickly organization can be thrown into chaos. I will never understand why Indians are in such a rush to get on planes only to sit for a really long time, cram into temples to get their prayers in before God goes on His lunch break soon, or do other things in a hurry only to have no real benefit from the chaos involved. But that’s just the way it is. 

In the middle of the stampede, we had to get “organized” in yet another line for security check. No bags were allowed, even the popcorn bags people bought while waiting in line. The military personnel yanked the bags from people’s hands (including a 2 year old) as we rushed through the PVC pipe “metal detectors”and threw them on the grass so that it was all littered with food. The 2 year old cried and reached for her beloved popcorn, but to no avail.

The main highlight is that the ceremony turned out to be a giant pep rally for India- Indians competing with the Pakastani visitors on the other side with how loud we could clap and chant "Long live India" and "Praise India." Our side blasted Bollywood hits on the sound system, all of which were patriotic in some way. A strange mean-looking man who looked like an Indian Hitler, complete with the mustache was our head cheerleader. I didn't see him crack a smile once. He would just point at us, point at his mouth, clap, and then point at the other side. Apparently we needed to be louder so the Pakastanis would hear who is better. Then, all of a sudden, loads of women and children from the stadium ran to the runway to dance to the music, apparently they were really pepped up. This giant dance party lasted for about 20 minutes. I was so confused and surprised, but it was hilarious. I’m pretty sure everyone on our side of the border, except for Indian Hitler, was smiling. Indians sure know how to have a good time.

The crowd after the floodgates opened

Cheesy flag running

Bollywood dance party

Dancing!